Collector guide updated June 18, 2026

This page is a dating aid, not a factory record. The Model 10 name arrived after Smith & Wesson adopted model numbers, but the revolver’s family tree starts with the .38 Military & Police line. That is why a proper Model 10 serial-number page needs to cover pre-war numeric guns, Victory Models, post-war M&P revolvers, C-prefix numbered guns, D-prefix service revolvers, and later alphanumeric ranges.

Collector caution: serial-number tables should be treated as approximate date ranges. Smith & Wesson revolvers can ship out of sequence, earlier frames can remain in inventory, and replacement parts or factory service can complicate a simple year estimate. For a valuable, insured, inherited, or historically important revolver, use a Smith & Wesson factory letter or other original documentation.

How to use this Model 10 serial-number guide

1. Find the serial number of record

On Smith & Wesson revolvers, start at the bottom of the grip frame. Letters are part of the serial number. Large target stocks can cover the butt, so the number may not be visible until the stocks are off.

2. Read the model and dash separately

The yoke cut may say MOD. 10, 10-5, 10-6, or a later dash. That confirms the engineering family, but it is not the same thing as the serial number.

3. Cross-check physical clues

Barrel profile, screw count, butt shape, finish, pinned barrel, stocks, and contract markings should make sense with the serial range. If they do not, slow down and document the gun before drawing conclusions.

Left side view of a Smith & Wesson Model 10 revolver
A Model 10 serial lookup is strongest when the serial-prefix era matches the barrel profile, model marking, finish, stocks, and overall configuration.

Model 10 and K-frame .38 serial-number era overview

The table below places the Model 10 inside its broader K-frame .38 lineage. The earliest guns are not marked “Model 10,” but collectors still research them alongside the Model 10 because the .38 Military & Police evolved into the numbered Model 10 family.

Serial pattern or era Approx. date range What it usually means Collector cross-check
Numeric-only K-frame 1899–1942 Pre-war .38 Military & Police production before the Model 10 name existed. Confirm early frame features, barrel markings, caliber, stocks, finish, and whether the gun falls before or after major M&P engineering changes.
V / SV prefix c. 1942–1945 Victory Model and wartime .38 Military & Police production, including U.S. and Allied contract revolvers. Look for military markings, parkerized or dull wartime finishes, lanyard rings, and .38 S&W/.38-200 versus .38 Special chambering.
S prefix c. 1944–1948 Late wartime and early post-war production before the C-prefix fixed-sight K-frame run took over. Expect post-war transition details and no Model 10 stamping until the numbered-model system appears later.
C prefix 1948–1967 Post-war fixed-sight K-frame series. Early examples are pre-Model 10 M&P guns; later examples include early numbered Model 10s. Model 10 marking appears after the numbered-model change. C-prefix alone does not prove the gun is a Model 10.
D prefix 1968–1977 High-volume fixed-sight K-frame police-service era, including many Model 10 and related K-frame .38 revolvers. Cross-check 10-5/10-6 and later dash markings, heavy versus tapered barrel, diamond stocks, and pinned barrel status.
2D, 4D, 6D, 7D, 9D 1977–1983 Later fixed-sight K-frame alphanumeric D-series ranges. Useful for 10-7, 10-8, 10-9 era context, but still use the yoke-cut model marking and features.
AAA#### style 1980s onward Triple-alpha-numeric system that spread across Smith & Wesson’s product line. For modern serials, box labels, factory records, and the current S&W lookup process matter more than older C/D-prefix tables.

C-prefix K-frame ranges: pre-Model 10 through early Model 10

The C prefix is where many Model 10 collectors start. A C-prefix revolver can be a pre-model .38 M&P, an early numbered Model 10, or another fixed-sight K-frame model, so the model marking and physical details still matter.

C-prefix serial range Approx. years Collector notes
C1 – C233,9991948–1952Post-war fixed-sight K-frame era; normally pre-Model 10 marking.
C236,004 – C261,4831953Pre-model .38 M&P context; confirm barrel, stocks, and screw pattern.
C277,555 – C402,9231954–1956Late pre-model era before Smith & Wesson’s numbered model designations.
C402,924 – C405,0181957Beginning of the numbered-model period; early guns may attract “first-year Model 10” interest.
C405,019 – C429,7401958–1959Early Model 10 window; good range for post-war collector documentation.
C429,741 – C474,1481960Commonly researched by birth-year collectors and early Model 10 buyers.
C474,149 – C622,6991961–1962Transition into early 1960s engineering changes and dash-marked variants.
C622,700 – C810,5321963–1965Mid-1960s C-prefix production; compare model dash and barrel profile.
C810,533 – C999,9991966–1967Late C-prefix fixed-sight K-frame production before the D-prefix sequence.

D-prefix and late fixed-sight K-frame ranges

D-prefix Model 10s are common police-service revolvers and are often excellent collector-shooters. The number helps place the gun in the right window, but the dash number tells you which engineering revision you are looking at.

D-series serial range Approx. years Collector notes
D1 – D90,0001968Early D-prefix era; compare stocks, barrel, and dash marking.
D90,001 – D330,0001969–1970High-volume service period; common with law-enforcement use and holster wear.
D330,001 – D420,0001971–early 1972Early 1970s Model 10 context; confirm 10-5 or 10-6 markings.
D420,001 – D510,000late 1972–early 1973Watch for police inventory markings, agency numbers, and non-original stocks.
D510,001 – D659,901late 1973–early 1974Typical heavy-use duty-gun window; condition and originality drive collector interest.
D659,902 – D750,000late 1974–early 1975Approximate range; use the factory letter when a tight date matters.
D750,001 – D870,000late 1975–early 1976Late pinned-barrel era context for many fixed-sight K-frames.
D870,001 – D999,999late 1976–early 1977End of the single-D prefix sequence before two-character D-series ranges.
2D00001 – 2D80,0001977Transition into the late 1970s sequence; match against dash and gas-ring changes.
2D80,001 – 2D99,9991978Shorter observed window; confirm with other features.
4D00001 – 6D10,0001979Late service-revolver production before triple-alpha systems dominate later records.
6D10,001 – 7D10,0001980Approaches the period when Smith & Wesson shifted toward triple-alpha serial formats.
7D10,001 – 9D44,5001981Late fixed-sight K-frame reference range; not a substitute for records.
9D44,501 – 17D8,9001982Commonly associated with the end of pinned-barrel production in collector discussions.
17D8,901 – 21D08831983Late D-series reference point; treat modern overlap carefully.

Dash numbers are not serial numbers

A Model 10 dash number is an engineering-change marker. It narrows the mechanical generation, but it does not replace the serial prefix. The best Model 10 identification uses both: the serial range for approximate date context and the dash number for engineering configuration.

Common early Model 10 confusion

A no-dash or early dash Model 10 can sit close to the C-prefix changeover, and transitional features are possible. Do not assume every C-prefix gun is a numbered Model 10.

Heavy barrel vs. standard barrel

The 10-5 and 10-6 live in the same broad era but point to different barrel profiles. A quick serial lookup should be paired with a barrel-profile check.

For the engineering-change side of the story, keep this page paired with the Model 10 dash-number guide. For broader production context and photos, use the main Smith & Wesson Model 10 article.

Open cylinder view of a Smith & Wesson Model 10 revolver
The yoke cut and cylinder area can reveal model and assembly markings, but the serial number of record should be checked on the grip frame.

Details collectors often miss

Assembly numbers are not serial numbers

Numbers in the yoke cut may have been used to keep hand-fitted parts together during production. They can look official, but they are often not useful for dating.

The model number may be in the yoke cut

After the late-1950s shift to model numbers, “MOD. 10” or “10-5” style markings commonly appear inside the frame window when the cylinder is open.

A star can indicate factory service

A star near the serial number is often associated with a major factory service operation, such as refinishing, and may be accompanied by a date code inside the grip frame.

Stocks can hide the number

Large target stocks and some replacement grips can cover the butt. For documentation, photograph the revolver, the grip frame serial, and the model marking.

Ship date and manufacture date are not always the same

Factory letters generally document how the gun shipped and where it was sent. That can differ from when the frame was made or when the revolver was assembled.

C and D prefixes are family clues

These ranges apply to fixed-sight K-frame families, not only Model 10s. Always confirm the model, caliber, and frame configuration.

Collector workflow for documenting a Model 10

  1. Photograph the whole revolver from both sides before changing anything.
  2. Record the full serial number from the bottom of the grip frame. Keep the complete number private unless you have a reason to publish it.
  3. Open the cylinder and record the model marking in the yoke cut, such as MOD. 10, 10-5, or 10-6.
  4. Note barrel length, heavy or tapered barrel, round or square butt, blue or nickel finish, and whether the barrel is pinned.
  5. Look for agency inventory marks, lanyard rings, property markings, refinish signs, mismatched parts, and non-original stocks.
  6. Use this page and the S&W K-Frame Lookup Tool for an approximate era, then order documentation when exact history matters.

When a factory letter is worth it

A factory letter becomes most useful when the revolver is unusually clean, nickel-finished, tied to an agency or contract, inherited with a story, advertised as rare, or worth enough that exact configuration changes value. For a Model 10, the letter can help confirm the original barrel length, finish, stocks or grip style when recorded, shipment destination, and departure date from the factory.

Letters are especially helpful for early C-prefix guns, Victory Models, unusual barrel lengths, export or police contract guns, and any example where the serial range and physical features do not line up cleanly.

Model 10 serial-number FAQ

Where is the serial number on a Smith & Wesson Model 10?

The serial number of record is normally on the bottom of the grip frame. The yoke cut can contain the model number, dash number, and assembly numbers, but those are not always the legal or factory serial number.

Why does my revolver have no “Model 10” marking?

It may be a pre-1957 .38 Military & Police. Those revolvers belong to the same family tree but were made before Smith & Wesson adopted numbered model designations.

Can I date my Model 10 by the dash number alone?

No. A dash number helps identify the engineering period, but a serial-prefix range is the better starting point for date context. Use both, then confirm with records if the exact date matters.

Is a C-prefix Model 10 always from 1960?

No. The C-prefix fixed-sight K-frame sequence runs much broader than 1960. A 1960 range is only one slice of the C-prefix table.

What about modern triple-alpha serial numbers?

Modern three-letter/four-number serials require a different approach. They are broader product-line serials, and factory records, box labels, or direct documentation are usually more useful than older Model 10 C/D-prefix charts.

Sources and further reading

The ranges and notes above are meant for collector orientation. They were checked against official Smith & Wesson history material, the Smith & Wesson Historical Foundation’s serial-number and letter guidance, collector tables, and existing Gun Collectors Club Model 10 pages.